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0:00
What's up everybody, it's Technicians Tuesday and what a week it's been
0:07
Hurricane Dorian's been out there toying with everybody here in Florida and we've been juggling back and forth between our two project boats
0:14
This week's video was supposed to be about our 25-foot pursuit that was an I-O conversion
0:19
but after looking at everything that we've gotten done on that project, we just can't fit it all into one video and get it published for this week's Technicians Tuesday
0:28
So we're going to push that up to next week instead of rushing a video and creating a bad one
0:33
which is why you'll want to make sure you're subscribed and have that notification bell on
0:38
and instead we'll jump right back onto the Ocean Master and fix that soft deck access panel that goes over our fuel tank
0:45
Now just in case you've missed the video where we took this panel out, you can click on the card that's in the top right hand side of the screen to see how we got the panel off of the floor and out of the boat
0:55
We'll start out by putting the piece onto some saw horses and then removing the two access ports that go to the fuel tank pickups and the cinder, as well as the old access that went to the live well, which we have converted into part of the bilge
1:08
Once we've got those out, we can flip the piece over and then set up some fans to blow the dust away from us
1:14
Then we'll basically just go around the entire edge of this panel, cutting the bottom layer of glass right along the edge of the panel
1:25
Now after we've gotten all the way of glass from the bottom layer of glass from the rotten wood that is inside
1:47
We'll be using that Milwaukee scraper blade again and this thing works wonders
1:51
Depending on how rotten the wood is, we'll determine how easily we can strip
1:55
this piece of glass off. If you are doing something like this, you will want to be careful
1:59
The goal here is to keep the top side of the panel intact so that we don't mess up the top
2:04
layer and have to do any kind of repair to the non-skid pattern. Hopefully you will be able to
2:09
rip the glass off pretty easily without damaging the top side fiberglass of the panel
2:14
You can also do this either one of two ways. You can try and save the bottom layer of glass if
2:19
possible and then just reglass that onto the panel if you would like, but it's probably easier
2:25
to do it the way we are going to do it and just re-glass the entire bottom section
2:29
After we finally get the piece of fiberglass off, you'll notice that there are a bunch of
2:33
square pieces of wood. This is a pretty common style to have depending on the make of boat that
2:38
you have. There are a ton of manufacturers that put these panels together using these plywood squares
2:44
or even balsa wood squares depending on the manufacturer. These usually pull off pretty easily
2:49
depending on how rotten the wood is, and even easier now that I know about this scraper blade
2:54
Now we just have to finish stripping these pieces out of the panel and then once we get towards the end
2:59
It'll be kind of like playing bags shooting them down to the end of the panel and through the access board
3:06
Then we'll end up with the panel looking like this which will bring us to the nasty part of this job
3:12
Where we have to grind down the fiberglass and get the surface prepped to lay a piece of mat before installing our new plywood for the deck
3:19
You can use whatever you would like here whether it be Kusa board another composite material or marine plywood like we be using today I wouldn recommend using regular plywood though but that up to you We need to grind all the way around the edge of this panel as well as the entire underside of the fiberglass
3:53
So, I'm going to be. It's super important to wear long sleeves, some heavy-duty gloves, and a good respirator when you're grinding any kind of fiberglass
4:35
It's a really nasty job, and the dust can do some serious damage to your lungs if you breathe too much of it in
4:41
I'd also recommend using a big fan or a lot of little fans to direct the dust away from you and point it to wherever is going to be easiest to clean it off whenever you get done grinding
4:51
After we've got the piece all ground out and prepped up, it's the perfect time to smash that like button
4:57
And then we will want to take some measurements to cut down our sheet of wood to fit into our panel
5:02
We've got to make this piece a little bit longer since we've got some deck repairing to do in the back of this boat
5:07
But once we get our measurements, we'll mark our piece with our measurements and then cut it down to size using our circular saw
5:17
Then we'll be ready to lay out our mat and cut it down to cover the same
5:21
the inside of the panel. Now for those that aren't that familiar with fiberglass, I have
5:25
to say that I'm not an expert when it comes to fiberglass, but this here is called mat
5:30
and it is basically like a bonding agent. It doesn't have any kind of structural properties
5:35
per se, but you use it to stick between two surfaces. We'll cut out our pattern to cover
5:40
the panel, and then we'll roll each piece up and set them off to the side so that we can just
5:45
roll them on once we are ready. And this is actually when we know that we are ready and
5:49
prep to start mixing up our resin. It's super important to make sure that everything is ready
5:54
because we only have a limited time of working time before the resin kicks off and becomes
6:00
gel before it begins to harden. Once the resin kicks off and begins to gel like that
6:05
that's it. You're done and we'd better be right where we want to be when that happens
6:10
One other thing about doing this is that you'll want to put on three or four pair of gloves
6:14
so that when one glove begins to get sticky or gets covered in resin or glass, you can quickly
6:19
rip it off and keep working without missing a beat or getting resin on something that you don't want to get resin on
6:25
Then you will also want to have a gallon of acetone around to clean off our tools with once we are done
6:31
Then we'll also need some buckets to measure with and then a 9-inch paint roller with polyester roller covers on it to roll out the resin
6:40
We'll be using polyester resin for this project and since I live in South Florida
6:44
will be using this GP hand layup resin from fiberglass coatings or FGCI
6:50
They are one of the bigger fiberglass supply companies here in Florida So if you live here in Florida and you need some fiberglass stuff check them out depending on what you need It usually a lot cheaper than going to West Marine
7:02
and you can just call them and have it delivered to you. With the resin
7:05
we'll need some hardener or catalyst, and we'll be using this MEP
7:10
For this, we'll be mixing up a half gallon, and we'll be mixing it at 1
7:14
because of the heat down here to give us the longest working time before it kicks off
7:19
This means we'll need about 20, cc's of the MEK and we've got this great little measuring bottle here where we can just squeeze the bottle and it fills up the top cup and then we'll just stir the resin as we pour in the MEK. We'll continue stirring for a minute or so and then we've got to get busy because once the MEK hits the resin the clock starts ticking
7:43
Once we're mixed up we'll pour out some resin onto the panel and then roll it out until we've covered the entire panel
7:51
Then we can take our mat pieces and roll them out one at a time until we've got them laid out
8:06
and then we'll take some more resin and pour it onto the pieces rolling that out as well
8:11
letting the mat soak up the resin. You don't need to be shy here, just dump the resin out and roll it over the mat until it's sucked up the resin
8:18
and is laying down nicely onto the panel. Tell me we're going to be able to you
8:24
Tell me we're going to. Then we'll move over to our piece of wood and pour the resin out onto that piece as well
8:58
Rolling the resin out and pushing it around the board until it soaks up the resin
9:02
We want to hit all the edges and the entire surface of the board as well
9:21
We'll let that sit overnight or for a couple of hours until the resin hardens and
9:28
will come out looking like this. The next step is to cut ourselves a piece of what is called woven fiberglass
9:35
I like to use the double-sided stuff here that has the woven part on one side and then
9:39
there is a piece of mat attached to the other side. We'll cut out a piece that will cover the wood in our panel and then we will mix up some
9:47
more resin but this time we'll be mixing up some resin and then adding what is called
9:51
silica or a type of faring filler to it to fill up this gap here between the panel and the wood
9:58
Between this process the transom and the bulkhead, I'll be showing you a few different ways of doing things
10:03
You know there's five ways of doing something and everybody will disagree with at least one of the ways
10:09
Which is why in this video we are using the wood and will also be using this West System 406 silica
10:15
Which is the same as what we have here and then this 410 which is more of a really easy easy to sand faring filler opposed to the 406 that is more for adhesion and you could also even say strength This stuff looks like a powder
10:30
and we will be mixing this up and putting it on to the top of the glass once we get that wet it out
10:35
So before putting the glass on, we will mix up our resin and then pour this silica into the cup
10:40
and mix it up until it gets to this thicker consistency and just barely runs off the end of the mixing stick
10:47
Then what we will do is just pour the mixture into the gap of the panel in the wood and work our way around the panel filling the gap
10:54
with this mixture. Once we've gotten all the way around the panel and filled that gap up, we'll mix up some
10:59
more resin the regular way and wet out our wood the same way we did the first time
11:07
Once that's nice and wet, we can take our fiberglass section and lay it out onto the panel
11:11
with the mat side down and then pour more resin onto the top of it
11:19
This takes a lot more resin than the mat alone does, and we'll take more resin than the mat alone does
11:44
and we'll take more time to get the piece to soak up the resin. but we'll just continue to pour more resin onto it and work it into the glass until we get the glass completely saturated with resin and work the edges down with our finger into the lip of the panel
12:17
Then really quickly, while the resin is still beginning to harden up and get tacky, we'll
12:23
mix up some more resin and add the 410 faring filler into it and stir it up until we get
12:29
a nice thick mixture. It's easier to use an electric mixer, but be careful because you can make a mess that way too
12:36
Once we've got that all mixed up, we'll just dump that onto our panel and you can really
12:40
smooth this stuff out nicely if you use a large trowel or putty knife
12:44
I had just used this knife and we're not concerned about this coming out smooth and pretty
12:49
It goes on the underside and covers the fuel tank. So we'll just spread this out over the panel and then we'll let that sit and dry until tomorrow
12:57
When it will be dry and we can come around and cut the excess pieces of glass off with
13:02
the utility knife. And then we'll just take some of this white bilge coat paint and paint the bottom of
13:07
the panel white. These children believe that a lack of intellectual ability led to mistakes
13:14
Next week, we'll be showing the first half of that Pursuit I-O conversion project
13:19
so you want to make sure you are subscribed to the channel. All that's left now for this panel, though, is to cut out our access ports
13:26
and we are ready to stick this panel back into the boat and screw it down. And that's how you fix your boat's soft deck panel
13:32
If you enjoyed this video, why not hit that like button and visit us on our website at born-againboating.com
13:39
Thank you for hanging out with us. Now enjoy the rest of your Tuesday night, and we'll see you next week
13:44
I'm going to be. Oh, Oh
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