Mercury 150HP Four Stroke 100 Hour | Annual Service | Full Service Maintenance

Name: Mercury 150HP Four Stroke 100 Hour | Annual Service | Full Service Maintenance | Open Video
Uploaded: 2024-08-16T16:54:49+00:00
Duration: 8 min 13 s

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Hello and welcome back to another service video
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Today we will be doing a full service annual with impellers on a set of Mercury 150 four strokes
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Enjoy the video and get subscribed for more boating and how-to videos
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Like we do on all four-stroke outboard services, we want to check the oil levels and then
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trim the engines up to allow all of the oil to drain out of the head and into the oil pan
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This particular set of engines had an issue with carbon buildup, but I'll make another
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video for troubleshooting that. Once the engines have been up for 5 to 10 minutes, trim them down level and then crack
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the drain valve here and then put a 5 eighth inch hose onto the barb and allow the oil
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to drain out. If the drain plug is extremely hard to turn, the O-rings have salted up
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Make sure you're using a solid 5 eighth inch and break it free until it's turning
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Then we'll have to take the whole plug out, using a piece of cardboard from the oil filter
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box to funnel the oil. Then we can clean it, install some new O-rings and reinstall it
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Next we can change the oil filter. You'll need a big filter wrench to get it off, clean the surface and the oil catch pan
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then with some clean oil or a little grease, install the new oil filter firmly hand tight
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To change the belt on these engines, you need a half inch wrench to loosen this bolt on the
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alternator here, then remove this bolt over here to allow the alternator to relieve the tension
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on the belt, then torque the bolts back in place after replacing it
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The thermostat is here on top of the engine with two 5-6. 16th inch bolts holding it in place. Remove those two bolts and the odaker clamp
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Then replace the thermostat in housing with some grease on the O-ring, twisting it a little while
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pushing down to not roll over the O-ring. Torque the bolts down and clamp the new clamp on
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Depending on what year your engine is, there may be two fuel filters on the engine. To remove the
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one on the side here, while pulling back, push down on the yellow tab and move it over to the��
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and pull up Make sure you do not let go of the filter and drop it and the hose down into the side chaps Push the hose towards the filter and then press the red tab and pull out on the hose
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Make sure you have the arrow facing the correct direction, put the yellow holder on, and click
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the hose back onto the new filter. Then change over the bottom hose from the old filter
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Guide the holder down into the hole and move the tab back under this lip here
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Now for the older 154 strokes, there might be a fuel filter down
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down here in the back of the engine behind the exhaust plenium
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We will have to remove the side chaps to change this filter. Look down in here to see if you have this filter before removing the chaps
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All of these are 5.6 inch bolts and we'll start by removing the two on the top here in the back
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then the two other ones on the side of the back here
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Then remove these three in the front, take out the flush fitting, and then putting the socket
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in through here, remove this one in the front. We can go ahead and take out this back portion here, pulling back and pushing down, then pulling
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out on it. Now this is the enjoyable part here. There are three bolts here on this cow latch part in the front
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A swivel socket or a deep well quarter inch drive directly on a ratchet works the best
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Tilt the engine up so if we drop a bolt it rolls forward. Pull the part out and then remove just one of the bolts left on the top of the chaps
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Then trim the engine down and disconnect the trim button, the trim cinder, and pull off the
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fitting and pull the hose through the chaps. We can now remove the chap by pulling out on it, but be careful on the oil drain side to
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slide it down off the oil drain plug before pulling straight out on it
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There is one more bolt here on the exhaust plenium. We can then slide the plenium to the right and change out the filter
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Cut off the zip ties and move the meshing up towards the fuel rail, then take a pair of
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crimpers or side cutters, pinch the middle of the odaker clamp and twist to get one
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side off the clamp and remove the clamp. Now just remove the filter and install two new clamps on each hose Install the filter with the arrow pointing up and then crimp the new clamps down Slide the mesh back over the filter and zip tie it back on Now just move the Plenium back and put the bolt back in
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Make sure the hose did not come off of the back of it, put the chaps back on, being mindful of the oil drain plug
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and push the chaps back in place, checking for wires around the front and also the gaskets around the bottom in the front
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Reinstall the front cow latch and wiggle the back piece in and secure it with the long bolt on the bottom
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Now just reinstall all the bolts, reconnect the trim cinder, the trim switch, and put the flush hose back through the hole
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If you have to change this filter, change the spark plugs while you have the chap split
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If not, get a deep well 5 eighth inch socket or spark plug socket and with a one inch extension or just barely placing the ratchet on the socket, remove the bottom spark plug
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Be patient or find a friend with small hands, this one gets kind of tricky
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Change out the boat fuel filters and then we can pull the lower unit and change the end
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Impeller. Bend the tabs on the nut holding the prop on and remove the 1 and 1 16th inch prop
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prop nut to remove the prop. Sometimes the thrust washer gets stuck on, just pop it off with a
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screwdriver or something else. Remove the black rubber piece and using a half inch socket
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remove the anode to get to the bolt underneath. Then there are four three quarter inch nuts on
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the sides holding the lower unit on. Now just pull down on the lower unit and slide it out
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Don't forget to change the bracket anode and we'll just change the impeller on this video
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Tilt the lower unit backwards and remove the drain plug and then the vent plug
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Remove the four bolts on the water pump housing and then pull off the housing with the rubber grommet on the top and the impeller
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Remove the keyway and the water pump housing plate with the gaskets. If you find water in the gear loop, you'll want to pressure test the lower unit and change out the seals that are leaking
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To pressure test, install the drain plug with a good seal and then install the pressure tester to the vent
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to the vent Pump it up to about 12 pounds and spray soapy water on the prop drive and shift shaft seals looking for air bubbles Then replace the seal that leaking Getting mercury or Quicksilver water pump kit comes all new seals plate gaskets keyway and impeller For the 50 bucks it well worth it
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Now clean out the water pump housing bolt holes and with the metal gasket on the bottom
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and rubber gasket on the top, align the little hole in the plate
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then slide them down into place, having these guides makes it a lot easier, put some grease on the drive shaft and stick the new keyway on
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Carefully looking at the impeller keyway cutout, slide the impeller onto the keyway
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keyway, put a little grease on the impeller to help it slide into the housing, then take
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the housing and twisting the drive shaft in a clockwise motion, push down on the housing until
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the impeller fits into the housing. Then lift it up a little and straighten out the rubber gasket
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Install the four bolts and put a little oil on the drive shaft to make it easier to install
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the housing grommet. Now pump fresh gear lube into the lower unit until you have a steady stream coming out the vent
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Install the vent plug with a new seal, tighten it down and quickly pull out the filler
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and install the drain plug. Replace the O-rings in the water tube adapter
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and will reinstall the lower unit. Grease up the drive shaft, the shift shaft
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and the locating pins. Then slide the drive shaft up into the engine
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and twist it until the drive shaft goes into the powerhead. Making sure it's still in neutral
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Wiggle it around and push up and down on the lower unit until you get the shift shaft
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to slide into place. Now just reinstall the nuts, bolts, and the propeller
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Tork them all down and don't forget to bend up the tabs on the prop nut with a grease gun grease the fittings on the engine bracket
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and now we have officially performed a 100 hour service with a water pump on a mercury
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150 horsepower four stroke motor. I hope this helps you get through your service. If you have
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any questions, ask us in the comment section below and don't forget to like the video
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and subscribe to the channel for more how-to and DIY boating videos. You can also connect with us on our
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website at born againboating.com and we hope to see you on the next video
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