Yamaha Outboard Annual Service | 100 Hour | F250 Thermostats

Name: Yamaha Outboard Annual Service | 100 Hour | F250 Thermostats | Open Video
Uploaded: 2024-08-16T16:52:02+00:00
Duration: 8 min 51 s

0:00
Welcome back, it's Technicians Tuesday and today we will be performing a full service on a set of 2005 Yamaha F-250s
0:20
We'll start this service out by performing a spark and compression test on the engines
0:25
We have to remove these back covers by pulling out the four 10mm bolts
0:30
And then we can remove the ignition coils from the engine. They have two 10mm bolts for each coil
0:40
With the coils out, we can remove the spark plugs that require a 5 eighth inch socket
0:44
to get them out. Then with the plugs out, we can install our compression tester into any cylinder, as well
0:49
as connecting our spark tester to an engine ground and all the coils
0:54
There are a couple of ways to turning over the engine to get the compression
0:58
you can use a remote key switch like this or have a buddy turn over the key for you
1:03
Or you can use a remote start button, but for these F-250s, the start solenoid isn't really
1:07
in a location where you can easily hook up the starter button. So using a power probe, we can stick it in here through the airbox and then move the grommet
1:15
off of the silenoid so we can supply some power to it to turn over the engine allowing us
1:20
to get our compression readings. If you would like some more information about compression tests like the different results
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What they mean, when you should do this test, and other useful info on compression testing
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I'll put a link to a great article we just wrote on compression testing in the description below
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Having great compression results, we'll move on to changing out these anodes here on the block
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A lot of people forget to do this or just skip them for a long time, but these are really
1:46
important to check when you are doing your service. You will notice that the anodes corrode away and begin to leak water and salt out of the
1:53
sides of the anode. Like these here, if you leave them in for too long, they break off
1:57
off and create cooling problems in the block. They are held in by a 12 millimeter bolt and once you get the bolt out you can just take a pair of pliers or a big screwdriver and pry on the boat hole here until you can grab it
2:19
and pull it right out. Then we just need to clean out all of these holes and get as much of this salt and junk
2:24
out of here as we can. If they are really bad you can hook up to a hose to the flush port and back flush water
2:31
through the engine to push out the chunks. But make sure you have the plugs in the engine so you don't get any of the stuff or water
2:37
into the cylinders. Changing the anode can take some time to clean all of the salt off of the holder
2:56
I like to take a hammer and a flat head and knock the chunks off of the anode holder and then clean them up the rest of the way with a wire wheel
3:07
Then with some grease, install the new anode and grommet
3:23
install them back into the head and we can move on with the service
3:29
We'll pull the lower units next. In the case of this lower unit here, it had a chain wrapped up in the prop and split the carrier in a couple of places
3:36
in a couple of places, so it is getting replaced. To get it off, just remove the six nuts on the sides
3:42
and then there are two 14 millimeter bolts on the bottom here
3:45
with one of them being under the anode, which takes a 12 millimeter socket to get the anode off
3:51
Sometimes the gear cases get stuck onto the engine if they are not regularly serviced
3:55
Like this one, it has been many years since it has been off, so naturally it won't come off
4:01
Being that the gear case is already destroyed, I just beat it with a hammer
4:06
until I can work some wedges along the sides of the case
4:16
Slowly working it down and off the engine For the sake of time I put a link in the description for the lower unit service video
4:32
that we have previously made, so we can move on to changing out the engine fuel filters
4:37
and the oil filter. Sometimes you can get lucky and spin the filter off by hand, otherwise you will need a wrench
4:43
to get the cup off. Pull out the old filter and just change it out
5:00
Be careful reinstalling the cup though because you can cross thread them and then you
5:04
will need to get this kit here to replace the cup and bracket assembly
5:08
Somebody had already done that on this engine and they simply put in an inline filter in its place to get by
5:14
So we took that out and installed the fuel filter kit but we want to leave the filter
5:18
assemblies off of the engine so that we can change out the oil filters. Which is the tricky part
5:23
of this service. What I have found to work the best here in changing out these oil filters is to
5:27
create a bowl with a dirty rag under the filter and then place another rag over the top of it
5:33
and a little forward to catch the oil as you pull the filter out
5:48
Then as soon as you pull the filter out, stuff the top rag up against a block where the filter goes, and then clean up all the old oil
6:10
Then you can pull out the rags and install the new filter without spilling oil all over the place
6:18
and having to clean out the pan with oil pouring out everywhere
6:25
Now just reinstall the fuel filter assembly and we can move on to the thermostats
6:30
These are a little easier than the thermostats on the F which we showed in a previous technician Tuesday video and I will put a link to that in the description as well so you can compare But for these we just need to take out the two 10mm bolts here and we can get to them by unplugging this cam position sensor
6:46
and then moving these wires out of the way here on the port side
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Then we can take the bolts out using a pair of needle nose pliers and then just move the housing to the side
6:58
Sometimes the thermostat stick into the block so just jam a screw drive
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into it and pry around on it until it breaks free. Then using the needle nose pliers
7:09
again, simply pull out the old stat, clean out the block, and install the new
7:13
thermostat. For the starboard side stat we need to remove the fuel line here by
7:19
pulling out on this red clip and then sliding the fuel hose off the barb. Be
7:24
careful not to lose the little blue piece that goes inside the hose. Now it's the same thing as the other side, unplug the sensor and move the wires out of the way
7:37
pull the housing off and pry out the old thermostat. We can move on to changing out the oil which can be done by sucking it out of the dipstick tube
7:50
or pulling the side chap on the starboard side and we will find a drain there as well
7:55
We'll change out the bracket anodes and top off the power tilt and trim fluid
7:59
Now don't forget to change out the boat fuel fill. out the boat fuel filters and grease up the grease points on the midsection and the handles
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Add the oil and we will close out another day here for this week's Technicians Tuesday
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Hopefully you found this video helpful, insightful or interesting enough to give us a thumbs up
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And for all the new viewers, we hope you will subscribe to our channel so you don't miss out on our
8:21
next Technicians Tuesday video. We cover all kinds of boating topics and outboard services
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So get the bell on and if you have any questions, let us know in the comments section below
8:31
Remember, you can reach us on our website at born againboating.com. Now enjoy your Tuesday night and we'll see you next week

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Yamaha Outboard Annual Service | 100 Hour | F250 Thermostats

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